Archive for December, 2013

21125643_sMembers of the plumbing industry are beginning to look at the plumbing systems of the whole building as it relates to the other design disciplines, owners, installers, operators, users, and the community outside the building, says the most referred Indianapolis plumber. For example, the whole building approach looks at the storm water that fell upon a site as a resource and when possible retain the storm water on site. Systems are now available and are required in some areas that maintain the amount of storm water run-off from a site to match the pre-development natural amount of run-off from the site.

As a result, the whole building approach to site design and storm water management can exceed regulatory run off requirements, reduce potable water usage, reduce sewer flow and reduce storm water flow from a site, says your local Indianapolis plumber. Because of the broad scope of responsibilities and areas of overlap with other design professionals, it is important to have the commercial master plumber on the project team as early as possible.

Your local Indianapolis commercial plumber can provide input in the following 5 strategic areas:

Plumber Pro Tip of the Week

Tip 1 The domestic system is the water provided by a municipal or site-sourced water system. A commercial plumber designs the water distribution system to protect the public health to the plumbing fixtures, landscaping irrigation, fire suppression system, filtration systems, mechanical systems, cleaning systems and process equipment.

Tip #2 A complex building requires special treated water systems and manufacturing facilities require special process water systems. Commercial plumbing specialists develop the design of these systems while keeping in mind that the ultimate whole building goal is to reduce the amount of water used by a facility.

Tip #3 Storm water collection systems can be used in the landscaping irrigation system instead of an irrigation system using domestic water. Using this whole building approach the domestic water usage is reduced.

Tip #4 Domestic water arrives at the building the same temperature as the ground. There are requirements for hot water in a facility usually for washing or bathing. A commercial plumber with proper qualification designs the water heating equipment and the distribution system for the hot water piping so hot water is available at a reasonable amount of time to the plumbing fixtures.

Tip #5 It is the responsibility of a commercial plumber to coordinate the appropriate type of fixtures in the different areas of the building. Close coordination is required for code requirements, number and placement of the plumbing fixtures. Looking at the domestic water system and sewer system with the whole building approach the qualified commercial plumber realizes that low flow fixtures reduce water and sewer consumption.

Tip #6 In a municipal system, reducing the amount of municipal sewer and domestic water taken from and placed into the local fresh water supply, depends on more buildings using a water conservation approach to water supply and disposal.

Tip #7 Water flowing from plumbing fixtures collects in the building sewer system. A commercial plumber designs this system to a point it connects to a municipal sewer system or to an on-site disposal or containment system. Some facilities require a separation between waste streams and/or treatment of special waste systems before they enter a common building waste system. For example, the grease waste from a kitchen can damage the sewer piping system. As a result, a grease trap is installed to capture the grease before it enters the common building system.

Tip #8 During a rain or storm event rain water falls on building roofs, parking lots, and green spaces. In northern climates snow or ice falls on a site in the same places. The water from the rain or snow is collected in the storm water system. The question of what to do with this water is becoming a debated topic and requires different approaches in different locations.


How To Repair A Leak In A Swing Spout Faucet

December 12, 2013 7:06 am
posted by Bob Gallup

Screen shot 2013-12-11 at 11.04.31 PMWater can leak and drip not only from the spout of your non-compression faucet, but from other parts of the faucet assembly as well. If you have a faucet with a swing spout, it is possible for the swing spout to leak around the base, says the most referred Indianapolis plumber. You will see this as drops of water, or sometimes as a tiny rivulet in the case of a bad leak, running down the fixture and into the sink.

Plumbing Pro Tip of the Week

Tip #1 Before doing this repair, close the valve controlling water flow to the faucet. Check to make sure it’s closed by turning the faucet handle to its open position.

Tip #2 Rotate the connecting ring counterclockwise. You can use a wrench for this, but channel-lock pliers will be better and easier to work with.

Tip #3 To keep from marring the finish of the fixture, put a strip of adhesive tape around the connecting ring.

Tip #4 After you have loosened the connecting ring sufficiently, you will be able to remove the swing spout just by lifting it.

Tip #5 At the base of the swing spout you will find an O-ring. Get a new O-ring at your local Indianapolis plumbing supply or hardware store, but make sure it is the same size as the old one.

Tip #6 Coat the new O-ring with some heat-resistant grease and then reassemble your faucet.

PLUMBING TRADE SECRETS: If your faucet has a plastic ball, replace it with a metal one. Plastic types can wear out in less than a year, which means that you’ll be doing this repair again before you know it.


21800514_sThe lavatory drain gets its fair share of clogs, “mostly due to human hair and soap scum, and sometimes an occasional toothbrush. Nine times out of 10, you can clear the lavatory drain by simply removing the pop-up from the center of the bowl and cleaning off the hair.

Some sinks, such as bowl sinks, do not have a pop-up. For these models you can often auger straight down into the vertical part of the trap, says the most referred Indianapolis plumber. However, your cable may not be able to get through the trap itself. Be sure to check the drainpipes for leaks after you’ve tried any auguring.

To rod a sink with a pop-up, go under the sink and unscrew the cap holding the lever that activates the pop-up. Then pull the lever straight back and out. Do not lose any parts. Be wary of a washer that might come out as well. If it does, reinsert it with the concave part facing out toward the ball on the lever.

Plumbing Pro Tip Of The Week

Tip #1 Remove the pop-up. This is where most clogs occur. If the pop-up comes out clean…

Tip #2 Find the clog in another location. If it comes out with a mass of hair, clean it. With the pop-up removed, you can rod the line straight down from the sink.

Tip #3 A fish-hook grabber may be used to pull out any debris and balls of hair. It may be a good idea to forgo using the auger and go straight to the P-trap. Put a bucket under the trap to catch the water that’s in it. Then simply unscrew the two slip nuts and the trap will fall away.

Tip #4 Clean the trap and make sure there is no blockage in the trap line going into the wall. If you still can’t find the blockage, clean the trap line.


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